My relationship with the wide leg trouser gets serious

So now the wide leg trousers were a success I figured I’d move onto the jumpsuit.

Now here’s the rub. I failed to readjust the trouser pattern to suit a heavier fabric. With the palazzo pants being a lightweight, floaty fabric I felt I could make the pattern as wide as I dared; they would simply get more floaty. This logic does not translate to denim, even a lightweight denim.

I left the pattern super wide at the bottom of the leg. I was a fool. This led to a whole host of problems I did not foresee.

However, completely unaware of this I pottered off to my favourite fabric haven and bought denim for the legs and a ditsy floral cotton for the top. DISCLAIMER: I believe none of the issues which follow are due to Gertie’s pattern or instructions. They are all down to me and my foolishness.

Issue 1) I had to cut my fabric against the grain. As we all know, before cutting, the fabric should be folded selvedge to selvedge, thereby allowing the fold to be aligned with the straight grain. This is important as otherwise it will not hang right when made into a garment. I paid this knowledge more heed and when my (frankly enormous) pattern pieces wouldn’t fit on the fabric the correct way I made a bad decision. I refolded my fabric rather than make the pattern smaller or buying more denim. This was very silly indeed.

Issue 2) I should have narrowed the legs while I had the chance. The pattern I drafted was altogether too wide for denim (let alone denim cut against the grain). They drowned me. the instructions Gertie gives in the book are designed with heavier fabric in mind. I made my pattern much larger than she suggests (due to the palazzo pants), I just didn’t realise how important redrafting would be for denim. If you choose to make this jumpsuit trust me when I say: “Listen to Gertie!” Don’t be a hero, too wide legs in denim look dreadful.

Issue 3) I didn’t adapt the pattern to suit me or the fabric. The summery fabric and colours I picked should have made it look light and easy to wear. Instead it looked heavy and uncomfortable. Because of the trousers cut the wrong way and too wide the bottom half looked overly large. Because of the sleeves (which were the wrong shape for me), the top looked as heavy as the bottom. the wrap front which should have accentuated my waist gave me no shape at all.

Lesson learned: follow your body shape! adapt adapt adapt. Next summer I’m planning on making the changes the jumpsuit needs even if this means making new trousers. I’m committed to this relationship and I have to salvage it.



(and yes to those paying attention to my pictures I do watch films such as the Man in the Iron mask while sewing. some days it’s Riverdance)


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